Sassi di Matera 2

 In the 1950's, as part of a policy to clear the extreme poverty of the Sassi, the government of Italy used force to relocate most of the population of the Sassi to new public housing in the developing modern city nearby.

We had another great lunch! Have I said the food is sooooo goooood here?!?!?!?!?

Until the late 1980's, the Sassi was still considered an area of poverty, since its dwellings were, and in most cases still are, uninhabitable and dangerous.


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Sassi di Matera

 The Sassi are houses dug into the chalky rock itself. Many of them are really little more than small caverns, and in some parts of the Sassi, a street lies on top of another group of dwellings. The ancient town grew up on one slope of the rocky ravine created by a river that is now a small stream, and up the other side of the ravine.

The height of the population was 20,000. This resulted in overcrowded conditions where disease spread due to unsanitary conditions.

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Matera, Italy

 Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is thought to have been settled in the 3rd century BC. It was variously occupied by Romans, Greeks, Byzantines, etc., over the centuries.

Matera has gained international fame for its ancient town, the "Sassi di Matera". The Sassi originated in a prehistoric troglodyte settlement, and these dwellings are thought to be among the first ever human settlements in what is now Italy.

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Bari, Monopoli

 After lunch, we went into Monopoli near where our boat is docked. The area was first settled in about 500 BC as a fortified city. The castle of Charles V was finished in 1525 on a promontory to protect the city from invasion. Plus there are 19 churches in the old city. We walked along the old walls and looked out to the sea.

Then, something we haven't seen in a long time, the SUN came out!!! 

As we walked but to our bus we saw some fishing boats come in from a long day of fishing. We took pictures of some of their catch.

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Bari, Italy

 Today they use stainless steel high tech machinery. The family also offered us an olive oil tasting. You take a small sip, roll it around to coat your mouth, then breathe in through your teeth. It's very interesting. And if you cough, it means the olive oil is good!! 

They then served us lunch. OHH MAMA MIA!! Nine appetizers - cheese with pear jam, sausage, eggplant with mortadella and cheese, foccacia, mushrooms on toast, grilled peppers with a mixture of cheese and chichory, I can't even remember all of them. Red wine. Then the pasta dish with boneless pork ribs. Then of course dessert - a great cake layered with cream and jam!!!

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Bari, Italy A Whistle To Find A Bride

 We went into one of the shops. You'll see the picture of the owner - 92 year old lady who has owned her shop for 57 years. They sell whistles made into fanciful shapes - see the pictures of them too. The story here is that the whistle was used by young men to find a bride. When they married, the whistle was blown again. You have to blow it three times to bring good luck and happiness.

Then we went to a Masseria that grows and processes olives into oil. Masseria is a farm with rural buildings particularly in Southern Italy. This family has about 300 olive trees. You'll see the old machinery used to process the olives.

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Bari, Italy Alberolello Cone-Shaped Houses

 The story is that when the King at that time, gave the land to a certain family, he said they could not build anything on the land. Well, of course, that's no good. So it was decided in the family that the buildings would not be permanent and could be easily torn down if the King's inspector came. So they built the buildings out of stones from the area and stacked them up without any mortar. They ended up being conical. People are not living in them anymore because they are dark and hard to ventilate but are using them as shops.

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Bari, Italy Alberolello

 
Bari's old town has narrow winding alleyways like all European towns.

As you will see in the pictures, we came across women making Orecchiette (little ear shaped pasta), like their mother and grandmother before them, right on the street.

Alberolello is known for its cone-shaped houses called Trulli. It's a feature of this part of the Puglia region which gained UNESCO recognition as a unique building technique.

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Bari, Italy

 The main Castle in Bari was the home of Frederick II, built in 1233. This Swabian Castle also served as a Renaissance residence for Isabella of Aragon and her daughter Bona Sforza and became a playground for the artists, writers and powerful dignitaries that the two would host.

Saint Nicholas' bones are kept in the Basilicaa of Saint Nicola, commissioned in 1089 to house the stolen relics of Bari's Patron Saint. We know Saint Nicolas as Santa Claus. The legends were built around him because he saved little children from harm and gave them gifts. Many places have him as their patron saint.

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Ortano

 It was in December 1943. The face to face, house to house fighting was particularly savage. On 28 December, after 8 days of fighting, the depleted German troops finally withdrew from the town The Canadians suffered more than 1300 casualties, many of them buried in the Canadian Cemetery of Ortona.

We then went to our "Home-hosted" lunch. Local people of the town invite small groups of us to their homes and serve us lunch and let us ask questions about life in Italy and they ask us questions about our home. Delicious Food !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Ortano, »Little Stalingrad«

 Ortano is an ancient seaport on the Adriatic which dates back some 3000 years. The old town was a jumble of narrow buildings crowded together on a steep promontory thrusting out into the sea.

 It became an important battleground during the Italian campaign during World War II. Ortano offered the Allies a supply port on the Adriatic and was fiercely defended by the Germans. The struggle


between the German paratroopers and the 2nd Canadian Infantry Brigade attracted the attention of the international press, leading this battle to be known as Little Stalingrad."

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Urbino Sooooo Good

 It is a World Heritage Site notable for a remarkable historical legacy of independent Renaissance culture.

The town is nestled on high sloping hillside and retains much of its picturesque medieval aspect. It and the countryside are beautiful.

We then took the bus to lunch, of course. Can't miss eating. Eating is part of the Italian culture. And it's sooooo good!!

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Urbino

 AW, Grand Circle didn't come through with the thunder storm!! No rain!! Just a little overcast. So a great day!

Urbino is a walled city in central Italy. It's known for the turreted, 15th century Ducal Palace (Duke's Palace). 

Inside the palace, the National Gallery of Art features paintings by Titian and Raphael. Raphael was born in Urbino.

Urbino is also a university town.

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San Marino

 Our tour guide, Silvia, told us that the local people of Pesaro aren't used to having tourists in their town yet. It's just opening up to tourists. So you will see in the photos that two local ladies stopped Silvia to ask what was going on with this large group of people she was leading around. She said they ask if she was a terrorist (I think they meant tourist!) Anyway, they had a lively conversation!

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San Marino

 They tell us to embrace the unexpected. Well, they have certainly given us experiences we didn't expect!!

We came back to Italy from the country of San Marino. Pesaro is a small town on the Adriatic Sea, down the mountain from San Marino.

 It is known as "the city of music" because of Gioacchino Rossini, the famous composer born in Pesaro in 1792. He wrote 39 operas as well as some sacred music, songs, chamber music and piano pieces.

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San Marino, Republic of San Marino

 We entered a new country today!! The Republic of San Marino!! It's the third smallest country in the World; next to the Vatican and Monaco. 

It is a mountainous micro-state surrounded by north-central Italy. Its capital, also named San Marino, is a medieval walled town with narrow cobblestone streets.

 Its Three Towers, castle-like citadels dating to the 11th century, sit atop the mountain peak.

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Ravenna 4 Halloween

 Halloween has not been traditionally celebrated in Italy, but when they found out that it can be used as an excuse to party, they joined right in.

We had lunch in an old taverna. Excellent as all Italian food is!!

We had free time to walk around and find more beautiful churches with beautiful mosiacs.

For dinner tonight on the boat, we all dressed up in our Halloween costumes.

After dinner, some local musicians will come on board to play local "balera" music. I think Doug and I will be in bed by then!!

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Ravenna 3 An Empty Coffin

 Ravenna is also the burial place of Dante, author of the Divine Comedy. He was born in Florence but was exiled for political reasons in 1302. Two hundred years after his death, Florence wanted his body back, but monks from Ravenna sent an empty coffin. His body was recovered hidden in a wall of a church in 1865.

Beside industrial plants and fishing, tourism is growing as a source of major income for the local population. Flat and quiet, the medieval city center is bike friendly and pleasant to walk.

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Ravenna 2 Mosaic Capital

 Believe it or not, today in Ravenna was bright and sunny, in the 60's. Tomorrow it will rain again so we're enjoying today!!

Ravenna was the fifth-century seat of the Roman Empire and later a major city during the Byzantine era.

Today it's most famous for its mosaics. It is the mosaic capital of Italy, where ancient masterpieces meet modern styles. The local Art Academy is the only one in Italy where students can graduate with a Master degree in mosaic. Mosaic is a decorative design or work of art made up of small materials, such as pieces of stone or glass, arranged to create a pattern or image.

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Ravenna 1 The Flood Caused A Change

 We then got back in our water taxi and sailed/floated/drove back to Venice; got on a bus and headed south to Ravenna. It took about 2 1/2 hours so we got a nice nap. 
We arrived at the port of Ravenna and boarded our Grand Circle ship the Artemus!! 

We were supposed to board her in Venice, but again, the flood caused a change in plans. Grand Circle Tours always has a Plan B and even sometimes a Plan C!!

We'll see how tomorrow is. Ravenna is supposed to be beautiful!!

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Venice 8 Attila, the Hun

 However we were able to eat lunch there after our tour guide called ahead and they said they could feed us. And it was a great lunch!! 

Oh, by the way, Torcella brags that 2000 years have passed since Attila, the Hun, stopped at their island in search of new conquests. In more recent times, a convalescent Ernest Hemingway walked the lanes lapped by the sea and drew inspiration for one of his most exciting novels. (They don't say which one). Hemingway must have loved to travel because he was everywhere; kind of like "Kilroy was here".

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Venice 7 Torcello

 With the men out fishing, the women developed their skill at lace making and shops sell lace products like linens and clothes. The also developed their own local butter cookie. You'll see the pictures.

The second island we visited was Torcello. It is very small with about 27 residents. Visitors come to visit the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, with its Venetian-Byzantine mosaics.

Again we could not visit it because the area was still flooded.

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Venice 6 Burano

 
The legend about the brightly colored houses is that, as in the olden days, basically everyone on the island was from the same family and so had the same name. So to distinguish them from each other, everyone painted their house a different color. Now of course, that tradition is set in stone so no one can change the color of their house. Another story is that the fishermen could pick out their house by its color and could see if their wife was working in the yard and around the house.

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Venice 5 Burano


 Today, the sun came out and the waters were calmer so we set out on our water taxi to two nearby islands.

The Island of Burano is known for its brightly colored fishermen's houses and its casual eateries serving seafood from the lagoon. No one was eating today though. All of the locals were busy pumping water from their homes, restaurants and other places of business and sweeping the flood water from the streets into the drains. It was so sad to see all of us tourists with no place to spend our money. We had reservations to eat lunch there but had to cancel.

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Venice - Acqua alta 4

 Well, I guess we really did survive the Venice Flood of 2018!! It was described in the New York Times and other newspapers. 

We were kept warm and safe by our tour guide. We walked around St Mark's Square as you saw yesterday; had our lunch of pizza in the rising water and were back in our hotel by 1pm. High tide was about 2pm. Our hotel had been newly renovated against flooding; so like I said we were warm and safe!!

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Venice - Acqua alta 3

 
We had the most delightful pizza today for lunch!! You'll see a picture of us sitting in the flood water enjoying lunch. Life goes on!!

And because of this flooding, boats can't get under most of the bridges so no gondola rides!

And we won't be able to visit one of the nearby islands tomorrow. In fact, the water is so high that our Grand Circle Cruise boat, the Artemus, can't dock anywhere near Venice. We'll be bussed out tomorrow to meet our boat south in Reevena.

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Venice - Acqua alta 2


So the forces of nature have all built up here so that the water in all of the canals has risen up over its banks and flooded the city. 

Our tour guide was nice enough to get us all water boots to keep our feet dry as we walk the streets of the city. You'll see the pictures of the boots, all very colorful; and of us trudging through the water filled alleys. We were instructed to walk carefully so as not to make a wake that would make a wave of water attack someone walking nearby.

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Venice - Acqua alta

 
Subsidence had led to the seasonal Acqua alta when much of the city's surface is occasionally covered at high tide. 

Well, we are here at this very special time!!!! And there's more!!! 

Not only does the water in the canals rise and fall with the tide of the Adriatic Sea, there's been a full moon which increases the rise and fall. There is also a big storm moving through this part of the country, bringing with it a lot of rain and wind.

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Piazza San Marco

 This square was the pulse of the Serenissima Republic in the heyday of Venice's glory as a seafaring republic. It is one of the most beautiful and most photographed squares in all of Europe. We went inside the beautiful Basilica but could not take pictures.

Subsidence is occurring here in Venice right now!! Subsidence is the gradual lowering of the surface of Venice. Venice is sinking!!! We're going to hear a lecture on it tonight. If they've figured out how to stop it, I'll let you know.

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Venice, Italy

 Venice is the capitol of northern Italy's Veneto region. It is built on more than 100 small islands in a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea. It has no roads, just canals - including the Grand Canal thoroughfare - lined with Renaissance and Gothic palaces. The islands are linked by over 400 bridges.

 The Central square is Piazza San Marco or Saint Mark's Square. It contains Saint Mark's Basilica, which is tiled with Byzantine mosaics. The other important structure is the Campanile bell tower that has been there as long as the Basilica.

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Venice tomorrow

 
Meanwhile, she took us on a short walking tour around our beautiful hotel; then to dinner at a "real" Italian restaurant. Doug and I had the calamari and some ravioli. Wonderful!!!

We start our tour of Venice tomorrow in the rain. Sylvia gave us all rain boots to wear. She said with the storm and the tide, the water could be well up to our knees. Doug will take some pictures of our new rain gear.

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Another Hour to Venice

 The weather is turning bad. The promised storm has arrived. We drove in the rain for another hour to get to Venice. Our guide, Alessandro, who has been with us the whole time, turned us over to the guide for the cruise down the coast of Italy to Malta. Her name is Sylvia. She must be Italian because she talks with her hands and is very happy and positive and lively!! She had to tell us about a change in our itinerary. With this storm, the sea is too rough for our boat to dock in Venice. So on Tuesday, they will bus us to Ravenna and we'll get on the boat there.

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